1073 lines
117 KiB
HTML
1073 lines
117 KiB
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<img width="800" height="600" data-src=="../wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1.jpeg" class="attachment-full size-full wp-post-image lazyload" alt="En este momento estás viendo La Coca Valenciana, el mejor manjar casero del mundo" decoding="async" data-srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1.jpeg 800w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1-768x576.jpeg 768w" data-sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800/600;"/>
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<h2 class="single-post-title entry-title">La Coca Valenciana, el mejor manjar casero del mundo</h2><!-- .single-post-title -->
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<li class="meta-date"><span class="screen-reader-text">Publicación de la entrada:</span><i class=" icon-clock" aria-hidden="true" role="img"></i>01/05/2020</li>
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<li class="meta-cat"><span class="screen-reader-text">Categoría de la entrada:</span><i class=" icon-folder" aria-hidden="true" role="img"></i><a href=="../category/blog/productos-gastronomicos/index.html" rel="category tag">Productos Gastronómicos</a> <span class="owp-sep">/</span> <a href=="../category/blog/index.html" rel="category tag">Blog</a></li>
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading">S<em>i cierro los ojos e intento acordarme de los sabores de mi infancia, de los desayunos en el campo o de las meriendas en casa de mi abuela, me vienen a la memoria las cocas dulces y saladas de mi niñez</em>.</h3>
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<p>De receta sencilla y de origen muy antiguo, las cocas se preparan y se consumen en toda la Comunidad Valenciana. </p>
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<p>La palabra “coca” (o torta en español) se refiere tanto a elaboraciones saladas, elaboradas con los ingredientes típicos (pimientos, berenjenas, cebolla, longanizas, tocino, atún, pisto, sardina salada, etc..), cuanto a elaboraciones dulces de pastelería. Entre estas últimas hay que nombrar las cocas de pasas y nueces (que no son nada más que un panquemado enriquecido con frutos secos), típicas en Semana Santa; y la coca boba o de “llanda” (palabra valenciana que significa <em>lata,</em> ósea el recipiente de metal rectangular en el cual estaba cocinada), conocida en Alicante como coca boba o coca secreta, o en Castellón como coca rápida<strong>, </strong>coca mal feta<strong> </strong>(mal hecha) o<strong> </strong>coca de mida.</p>
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<div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1024" height="576" data-src=="../wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_5-1024x576.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-9642 lazyload" data-srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_5-1024x576.jpeg 1024w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_5-300x169.jpeg 300w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_5-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_5-1536x864.jpeg 1536w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_5.jpeg 2016w" data-sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024/576;"/></figure></div>
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<p>La coca “llanda” es un bizcocho casero, un clásico de las meriendas y de los postres en los hogares valencianos<strong>,</strong> y los hay en varias versiones: con leche o con yogur, con canela, o sin canela; acompañado con mistela<strong>, </strong>con un vaso de horchata<strong> </strong>o chocolate caliente.</p>
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<p>La masa de la coca es muy sencilla de preparar (una medida de aceite, dos de agua, cuatro de harina, sal y levadura), aunque hay variantes en ingredientes y dosis.</p>
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<p>En algunas recetas en vez de agua se pone gaseosa y un pellizco de bicarbonato; en otras se varían las medidas de agua y aceite, según el gusto o costumbre de quien amasa. También hay quien escalda la harina de trigo en agua hirviente, añadiéndola según vaya amasando y quien sustituye la harina de trigo con la de maíz (cocas de Dacsa) como se hace en Gandia y en la mayor parte de la comarca de La Safor. </p>
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<p>En todos los casos el resultado ha de ser lo mismo: una masa suave, blanda y ligeramente elástica. Una vez formadas, recubiertas o no de viandas según los gustos, se cocinan en el horno hasta que tomen un delicado color dorado en su superficie y se forme una deliciosa costra crujiente. </p>
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<blockquote class="wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow"><p>Sobre el origen de ese tesoro de la panadería mediterranea hay varias opiniones. </p></blockquote>
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<p>La introducción de los cereales en la historia de la alimentación humana empezó ya desde la era prehistórica. En la <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Edad de Piedra</a>, el “Homo habilis” con la elaboración de utensilios líticos empezó a moler cereales entre dos piedras (de ahí los morteros de hoy en día) y es posible que, con el pasar del tiempo, la harina obtenida mezclada con agua, y caída sobre una piedra caliente, dio como resultado algo parecido a una “gacha”.</p>
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<p>Y también es posible como esa misma porción de gacha, dejada a la intemperie y convenientemente colonizada por algún tipo de levadura natural, terminó fermentando y produciendo, tras la cocción, un pan esponjoso y tierno. </p>
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<div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1024" height="576" data-src=="../wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_6-1024x576.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-9643 lazyload" data-srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_6-1024x576.jpeg 1024w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_6-300x169.jpeg 300w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_6-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_6-1536x864.jpeg 1536w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_6.jpeg 2016w" data-sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024/576;"/></figure></div>
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<p>De ahí a la elaboración de cerveza solo hay un par de casualidades más. Y algo parecido debió ocurrir con el vino, cuando un puñado de esporas aterrizó sobre un zumo de frutas.</p>
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<p>El pan se solía amasar en casa y posteriormente se llevaba al horno de la localidad donde se completaba la fermentación de la masa para su posterior cocción. No era infrecuente que a la hora del almuerzo el pan no estuviera listo para su cocción, así que las mujeres tomaban uno o dos de estos panes a medio fermentar, los aplanaban formando una torta (<em>coca</em>), a continuación, con el pulgar le marcaban los dedos por encima, les vertían un generoso chorro de aceite de oliva, un buen pellizco de sal y las pinchadas minuciosamente en su superficie con un tenedor, facilitando así la absorción de este oro líquido.</p>
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<p>El resultado eran unas cocas divinas, plagadas de agujeritos, aromatizadas con el delicioso sabor del aceite de oliva, con una costra crujiente y dorada salpicada por el brillo de los cristales de sal.</p>
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<p>De hecho hace muchos años disponer de un horno en una vivienda era algo sólo al alcance de los más pudientes y el pan elaborado en un horno o tahona, sobre todo en los pueblos, sólo lo consumían las clases más adineradas. </p>
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<p>También hay quien dice que era “el almuerzo del los panaderos” , porque lo preparaban los panaderos para almorzar recubriedolos de los que tenían “a mano” en aquel momento.</p>
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<p>Otros apuestan a que los panaderos las preparaban antes de hacer la primera horneada de pan del día , para atemperar el horno, reduciendo así su alta temperatura, y dandole la humedad necesaria, a través del vapor que se desprendia de éstas. Al no existir todos los alimentos de producción industriales que hay hoy en día, era muy habitual preparar el almuerzo o la merienda con la masa de estas cocas, enriquecidas con finas lonchas de tocino, panceta (<em>cansalá</em>), embutidos, cebolla y tomate, pisto de verduras, pimiento verde y piñones o con atún u otros pescados, o elaborar cocas rellenas (como las empanadas gallegas), muy populares en la comarca de la Marina.</p>
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<div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img decoding="async" width="800" height="600" data-src=="../wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-9644 lazyload" data-srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1.jpeg 800w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_1-768x576.jpeg 768w" data-sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800/600;"/></figure></div>
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<p>Si miramos más atrás en el tiempo, entre los <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">siglos XIII</a> y <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">XV</a> cuando el Reino de Nápoles y Sicilia pertenecieron a la corona de Aragón (a Francia durante un breve período, y después a España y Austria hasta su independencia que llegó en 1734), entre las tropas del Rey Alfons el Magnànim había muchos soldados reclutados en tierras de la Safor y la Marina. Así que no es descabellado pensar que estos compartieron sus técnicas culinarias, y otras costumbres con los habitantes del Reino de Nápoles y Sicilia. </p>
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<p>Probablemente las cocas, que ya se consumían en la Safor por aquel entonces, fueron una de las elaboraciones que transmitieron a los pobladores de estas tierras italianas.</p>
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<p>En Italia, país que ha conservado mejor que el nuestro, muchas de sus tradiciones culinarias, es habitual encontrar en panaderías y pizzerías estas cocas de aceite, exactamente iguales a las valencianas, pero denominadas “focaccias”.</p>
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<p>Después del descubrimiento de América y tras la conquista por Hernán Cortés de la ciudad de Tenochtítlan, <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">capital</a> del Imperio <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">mexica</a>, en el 1521, los españoles introdujeron el tomate en Europa y es en Nápoles donde aparece el primer libro de cocina con recetas a base de tomate titulado <em>Lo</em> <em>scalco allá moderna</em> (el camarero moderno) que fue publicado en 1692, aunque es muy plausible que el autor, Antonio Latini obtuvo las recetas a través de fuentes españolas.</p>
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<div class="wp-block-image is-style-rounded"><figure class="aligncenter size-large is-resized"><img decoding="async" data-src=="../wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_2-1-768x1024.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-9646 lazyload" height="600" data-srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_2-1-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_2-1-225x300.jpeg 225w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_2-1-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020851im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lapaellanet_coca_2-1.jpeg 1512w" data-sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 768px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 768/1024;"/></figure></div>
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<p>Seguramente el origen de la pizza sea debido al añadir a la masa de la coca, el tomate y el queso. Años más tarde, en el 1860, cuando el Reino de Nápoles y Sicilia se incorporaron a la Italia unificada, conservaron la elaboración de la masa para su “pizza siciliana”, más esponjosa, menos fina, y muy similar a nuestras cocas.</p>
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<p>Si fueron los soldados valencianos o no, los que enseñaron a los habitantes del Reino de Nápoles y Sicilia la elaboración de cocas o” focaccias”, es algo difícil de demostrar, más teniendo en cuenta que una papilla de cereales fermentada y horneada es algo que se elabora en todo el arco mediterráneo y en otros lugares del mundo desde hace miles de año. </p>
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<p>Pero como Valenciano que soy, y ateniéndome a hechos históricos contrastados, no puedo evitar pensar como la influencia culinaria valenciana con sus “cocas”, fue determinante en la aparición de la pizza o en la “focaccia” italiana.</p>
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<p>De hecho la origen de la pizza ha sido tradicionalmente atribuido a la <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">gastronomía de Italia</a> y en concreto a la <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cocina napolitana</a>. En el 2017 la UNESCO declaró al «arte de los <em>pizzaioli</em> (pizzeros) napolitanos» como <a href=="#" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial de la Humanidad</a>. </p>
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<p>Así que, por no entrar en discusiones con los italianos en los orígenes de una de las comidas más difundidas del mundo, creo que probablemente la elaboración de la masa sea “valenciana” mientras que su invento, italiano.</p>
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