1112 lines
113 KiB
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1112 lines
113 KiB
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<title>Talibanes de la Paella - LA PAELLA.net</title>
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<meta property="article:published_time" content="2020-04-16T12:19:27+01:00"/>
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<a class="skip-link screen-reader-text" href=="#main">Saltar al contenido</a>
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<div class="elementor-element elementor-element-2a78889 elementor-headline--style-highlight elementor-widget elementor-widget-animated-headline" data-id="2a78889" data-element_type="widget" data-settings="{"marker":"underline_zigzag","highlighted_text":"ARROZ","headline_style":"highlight","loop":"yes","highlight_animation_duration":1200,"highlight_iteration_delay":8000}" data-widget_type="animated-headline.default">
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9882"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-marisco-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Paella de marisco</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9883"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-pato-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Paella de pato</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9888"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-morena-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Paella morena</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9954"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-bogavante-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Paella de bogavante</a></li>
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</ul>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-has-children menu-item-9652"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/index.html" class="elementor-item">Arroces típicos de Valencia</a>
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<ul class="sub-menu elementor-nav-menu--dropdown">
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9870"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-a-banda/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz a banda</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9871"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-al-horno-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz al horno</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9872"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-al-horno-de-anguilas-y-bajocas-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz al horno de anguilas y bajocas</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9873"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-allipebrat-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz allipebrat</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9874"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-amb-bledes-con-acelgas/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz amb bledes (con acelgas)</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9875"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-amb-fesols-i-naps-con-alubias-y-nabos/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz amb fesols i naps (con alubias y nabos)</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9876"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-con-pasas-y-garbanzos/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz con pasas y garbanzos</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9877"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-meloso-semicaldoso-con-brocheta-de-calamarcitos-y-gambas-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz meloso (semicaldoso) con brocheta de calamarcitos y gambas</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9878"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-meloso-de-pato-setas-y-trufa-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz meloso de pato, setas y trufa</a></li>
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||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9879"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-negro/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item">Arroz negro</a></li>
|
||
</ul>
|
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</li>
|
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9869"><a href=="../nosotros/index.html" class="elementor-item">Nosotros</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-custom menu-item-object-custom menu-item-9895"><a href=="../blog/index.html" class="elementor-item">Blog</a></li>
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</ul> </nav>
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<div class="elementor-menu-toggle" role="button" tabindex="0" aria-label="Alternar menú" aria-expanded="false">
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<i aria-hidden="true" role="presentation" class="elementor-menu-toggle__icon--open eicon-menu-bar"></i><i aria-hidden="true" role="presentation" class="elementor-menu-toggle__icon--close eicon-close"></i> <span class="elementor-screen-only">Menú</span>
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<ul id="menu-2-24462255" class="elementor-nav-menu"><li class="menu-item menu-item-type-custom menu-item-object-custom menu-item-has-children menu-item-9880"><a href=="#" class="elementor-item elementor-item-anchor" tabindex="-1">Paellas</a>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9886"><a href=="../receta-paella-de-marisco/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella de Marisco</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9884"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-verduras-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella de verduras</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9882"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-marisco-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella de marisco</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9881"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-langosta-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella de langosta</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9883"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-pato-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella de pato</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9888"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-morena-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella morena</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9954"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/paella-de-bogavante-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Paella de bogavante</a></li>
|
||
</ul>
|
||
</li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-has-children menu-item-9652"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/index.html" class="elementor-item" tabindex="-1">Arroces típicos de Valencia</a>
|
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<ul class="sub-menu elementor-nav-menu--dropdown">
|
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9870"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-a-banda/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz a banda</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9871"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-al-horno-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz al horno</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9872"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-al-horno-de-anguilas-y-bajocas-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz al horno de anguilas y bajocas</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9873"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-allipebrat-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz allipebrat</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9874"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-amb-bledes-con-acelgas/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz amb bledes (con acelgas)</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9875"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-amb-fesols-i-naps-con-alubias-y-nabos/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz amb fesols i naps (con alubias y nabos)</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9876"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-con-pasas-y-garbanzos/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz con pasas y garbanzos</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9877"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-meloso-semicaldoso-con-brocheta-de-calamarcitos-y-gambas-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz meloso (semicaldoso) con brocheta de calamarcitos y gambas</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9878"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-meloso-de-pato-setas-y-trufa-2/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz meloso de pato, setas y trufa</a></li>
|
||
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9879"><a href=="../arroces-tipicos-de-valencia/arroz-negro/index.html" class="elementor-sub-item" tabindex="-1">Arroz negro</a></li>
|
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</ul>
|
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</li>
|
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-9869"><a href=="../nosotros/index.html" class="elementor-item" tabindex="-1">Nosotros</a></li>
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<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-custom menu-item-object-custom menu-item-9895"><a href=="../blog/index.html" class="elementor-item" tabindex="-1">Blog</a></li>
|
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<img width="500" height="364" data-src=="../wp-content/uploads/2020/04/image4.jpg" class="attachment-full size-full wp-post-image lazyload" alt="En este momento estás viendo Talibanes de la Paella" decoding="async" data-srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020947im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/image4.jpg 500w, https://web.archive.org/web/20251013020947im_/https://lapaella.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/image4-300x218.jpg 300w" data-sizes="(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 500px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 500/364;"/>
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<header class="entry-header clr">
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<h2 class="single-post-title entry-title">Talibanes de la Paella</h2><!-- .single-post-title -->
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<li class="meta-date"><span class="screen-reader-text">Publicación de la entrada:</span><i class=" icon-clock" aria-hidden="true" role="img"></i>16/04/2020</li>
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<li class="meta-cat"><span class="screen-reader-text">Categoría de la entrada:</span><i class=" icon-folder" aria-hidden="true" role="img"></i><a href=="../category/blog/index.html" rel="category tag">Blog</a></li>
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<h3 class="wp-block-heading"><em>Aunque “la paella” sea una elaboración culinaria de la rica y variada gastronomía española, conocida a nivel mundial y presente en las cartas de miles de restaurantes, curiosamente se desconoce su “verdadera receta”.</em></h3>
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<p>Según la ortodoxia culinaria valenciana, su elaboración contiene: pollo, conejo y en ocasiones pato, judía verde ferraura o rotjet (judía verde plana), garrofón, <em>tavella</em> (tabella), tomate, azafrán y pimentón. En algunas recetas también se incluye ajo, alcachofas o caracoles e incluso una ramita de romero. </p>
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<figure class="wp-block-image is-resized"><img decoding="async" data-src=="#" alt="" width="377" height="254" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 377px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 377/254;"/></figure>
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<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" data-src=="#" alt="" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload"/></figure>
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<p>¿Y si se preparara “una paella valenciana” sin algunos de los ingredientes” típicos de la receta”?</p>
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<p>Sería una “herejía culinaria “, donde el culpable podría ser desterrado de Valencia o hasta amenazado de muerte.</p>
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<p>¿Y por qué la paella valenciana solo se puede realizar con estos ingredientes? </p>
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<p>Reflexionemos un poco…</p>
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<p>Los más puristas apelan a la tradición, o mejor dicho “a su tradición”, para excluir la denominación de “paella valenciana” a cualquier arroz que utilice otros ingredientes como pimiento, magro de cerdo, albóndigas, cebolla o guisantes.</p>
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<p>Yo mismo soy Valenciano y de varias generaciones, y en mi casa, durante todo el año, los domingos se cocinaba la paella valenciana, con los ingredientes tradicionales antes mencionados. En invierno, pero, se utilizaban guisantes, alcachofas y habas, ya que el garrofón fresco o las judías verdes, que son verduras estacionales, no se encontraban habitualmente en los comercios durante los meses más fríos. </p>
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<p>El resultado era una paella deliciosa, y tan valenciana como cualquier otra. <img decoding="async" alt="Ampliar imagen" data-src=="#" width="272" height="198" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 272px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 272/198;"></p>
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<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" data-src=="#" alt="" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload"/></figure>
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<p>En Castellón es habitual utilizar pimiento rojo y/o verde, costillas de cerdo y judías blanquetas. En el Sur de la provincia de Valencia y en Alicante el pimiento también es un ingrediente habitual de la paella y en algunas zonas además incorporan garbanzos, costilla de cerdo, trocitos de aguja de cerdo, pelotas o <em>mandonguilles</em> de distinta composición. Son paellas elaboradas acorde a tradiciones familiares, recetas que se transmitieron de generación en generación.</p>
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<p>¿Se merecen estas paellas ser denominada “paellas valencianas”?</p>
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<p>La ortodoxia paellera más purista y cerril, las consideraría heréticas por contener ingredientes prohibidos. Para los talibanes de la paella, la única paella verdadera y pura, digna de subir al cielo de los arroces, es lo que yo denominaría paella de la huerta de valencia, aunque actualmente debería denominarse “paella del área metropolitana de la ciudad de Valencia”, porque donde antes había huerta el ¿progreso? ha transformado en polígonos, urbanizaciones o carreteras de circunvalación.</p>
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<p>¿No son las paellas de Castellón o de Gandía tan valencianas, como la paella de Valencia?</p>
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<p>Pese a que los castellonenses o los gandienses son tan valencianos como los que vivimos en Valencia ciudad, los talibanes de la paella nunca aceptarán que se pueda denominar paella valenciana, una receta que falte de sus ”ingredientes sagrados “.</p>
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<p>Solo porque algunos cocineros de la ciudad de Valencia decidieron hace 100 años, que la receta era aquella que ellos mismos consideraron oportuna, el uso de cualquier otro ingrediente transformaría una típica paella valenciana en un mero “arroz con cosas”.</p>
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<p>Si buscamos recetas antiguas del siglo XIX y principios del siglo XX, observaremos que el uso de carne de cerdo, salchichas o longanizas, chorizo, guisantes, ajo, pimientos, anguilas, mariscos, eran ingredientes muy habituales en la elaboración de paellas. Incluso la rata de albufera, realmente no es una rata, es un topillo que se alimenta de arroz, era un ingrediente apreciado para la elaboración de arroces.</p>
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<p>En un manuscrito del 1857 se lee esa receta de “sartén a la valenciana” (paella) donde : “<em>Se prepara una sartén cuyo fondo sea igual a la hornilla… se le echa aceite o manteca de cerdo en proporción… se fríen en ella unos cuantos pimientos… se echan en seguida a freír pollos, patos, lomo de cerdo y salchichas, todo hecho pedazos … dos o tres dientes de ajo mondados y cortados, tomate, perejil, pimiento encarnado, sal, azafrán y un poco de pimienta y clavo… entonces se ponen alcachofas, guisantes, judías verdes desgranadas ó bien hechas pedazos…en seguida se aumenta caldo o agua caliente y se deja hervir hasta que todo esté cocido… se echa el arroz suficiente… aumentándole los pimientos y algunos trozos de anguila…”</em></p>
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<p>Otras referencias históricas en prensa antigua se pueden encontrar en “El Áncora (diario católico popular de las Baleares: Año XI Número 3193 – 1890 junio 30”, donde se menciona en la página 2 “paella a la valenciana con pollo, lomo y longanizas”); o en el “Heraldo de Castellón (Año XL Número 12341 – 07 diciembre 1929”, donde se menciona en la página 2 una paella valenciana de magro, pollo y mariscos).<br>(Fuente valenciabonita.es)</p>
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<p><br><img decoding="async" width="268" height="188" alt="Tiritinyam: La paella japonesa de cinco quesos y otras delicatessen" data-src=="#" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 268px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 268/188;"></p>
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<p>La riqueza de la paella es su versatilidad, su capacidad para adaptarse a los ingredientes disponibles en cada temporada y en cada zona. Como dijo Alain Ducasse «La excelencia está en la diversidad<strong> y</strong> el modo de progresar es conocer y comparar las diversidades de productos, culturas y técnicas».</p>
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<p>Así que los valencianos deberíamos centrar nuestros esfuerzos en reivindicar y promocionar la paella como un plato de origen valenciano. </p>
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<p>Una sartén casi plana (la paella o paellera) donde, tras el sofrito de todos sus ingredientes, éstos a través del caldo de cocción, trasmiten al arroz todo su sabor.</p>
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<p>Donde el arroz se remueve sólo al principio de su cocción, repartiéndolo uniformemente en su” paella” procurando que una vez cocinado, quede seco, relativamente suelto, con el grano entero, pero no duro, y una ligera capa de su delicioso “socarrat en el fondo del recipiente. </p>
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<p>Pero desgraciadamente no es así…. </p>
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<p>Hace unos años Jamie Oliver, un conocido y mediático cocinero inglés, preparó una paella en su programa seguido por millones de personas en todo el mundo, utilizando el chorizo y chistorra entre otros ingredientes. El resultado de aquello fue una catarsis colectiva en toda la ciudad de Valencia, gente rasgándose las vestiduras, insultándolo y faltándole al respeto.</p>
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<p>Nadie se dio cuenta de la promoción que Jamie Oliver estaba dando a Valencia, a los valencianos y a la paella. En vez de agradecimientos sólo recibió insultos y amenazas. </p>
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<p>Dudo que después de aquello quiera repetir una “paella valenciana” en otro programa. </p>
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<figure class="wp-block-image"><img decoding="async" data-src=="#" alt="Crisisalimentaria" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload"/></figure>
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<p>Trabajo como asesor culinario y profesor de cocina, y sé por experiencia, que la paella Valenciana ortodoxa no es la más apreciada fuera de la provincia de Valencia. En el resto del mundo la paella es mixta, o se elabora con ingredientes diferentes de los tradicionales. Cuando imparto clases a profesionales o realizo asesoramientos a restaurantes situados fuera de la Comunidad Valenciana, siempre indago sobre los productos y gustos locales y elaboro paellas con esos productos. </p>
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<p>Hace un tiempo unos clientes de la ciudad de Puerto Rico, me llamaron para asesórales y después de informarme sobre las preferencias y los ingredientes autóctonos, elaboré una paella con carne de ternera. Lo mismo me pasó en un restaurante en Galicia, con una paella de nécoras, o de costillas con grelos. Y en Almería cuando elaboré una paella con gurullos (una pasta elaborada a partir de harina de trigo, agua y azafrán, de forma ahusada) en vez de la típica “fideua”.</p>
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<p>Cuentan, pero quizás sea solo una leyenda, como durante la ocupación francesa, el monasterio del Puig fue utilizado como cárcel y acuartelamiento y que el capitán francés, gran aficionado al arroz, admiraba las dotes culinarias de la cocinera valenciana. </p>
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<p><img decoding="async" width="252" height="160" alt="Resultado de imagen de paella con chorizo" data-src=="#" src=="data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==" class="lazyload" style="--smush-placeholder-width: 252px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 252/160;"></p>
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<p>Un día ésta le dijo que podía ser capaz de hacer un arroz distinto cada día durante todo un año. El capitán entonces le desafío, prometiéndole que si lo hacía, liberaría a todos los familiares y amigos de la cocinera que estaban presos allí. Un año después el capitán no tuvo más remedio que cumplir su promesa. </p>
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<p>Leyenda o hecho real, creo que este es un buen ejemplo de la variedad de paellas que pueden realizarse, manteniendo la técnica y siendo un poco iconoclastas en la elección de ingredientes.</p>
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<p>Así que, no seamos talibanes del arroz, abramos nuestra mente y nuestro paladar, sin renunciar a la tradición, pero sin olvidar nunca que una de las riquezas de nuestro plato más popular y apreciado es su capacidad de adaptación a lo que la despensa nos ofrece durante las estaciones del año.</p>
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